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Contact Admin. Search the history of over billion web pages on the Internet. Used by permission of copyright proprietor. Copyright, , by Leonard Jan Mitchell AH rights reserved including the right to reproduce this book or portions therefrom in any form. Appetizers, 38 2. Soups t 48 3.
Fish and Shellfish, 59 4. Poultry and Game Birds, 73 5. Meats and Game, 92 6. Cheese and Eggs, 7. Dumplings and Noodles, 8. Salads and Salad Dressings, 9. Vegetables, Of the remaining few New York places that can call them- selves restaurants, Liichow's triumphs in Gemutlichkeit. This quality, strong as the handshake of an old friend and a slap on the shoulder, is nowhere more honest. It enfolds you as you enter into the agreeable paneled halls.
A fragrance, delicate, but not weak, and slightly male, rides the air. It composes itself of the aromas of solid cooking, of roast geese and ducks, of game and Huhn im Topf , of various things, sour and spicy, and tender cutlets simmering among Steinpilze. Through it is wafted the bouquet of good wines, and above this hangs the blue cloud of the smoke of rare cigars. This ob- scures the stag and moose heads that are part of the decor, along with samples of the ironmonger's art.
Every kind of restaurant finds its own public. Several of the best in New York have a patronage so select that they are checked into the premises with elaborate and embarrassing care, and seated according to a rigid protocol.
Seute, now vice-president of Liichow's, but still func- tioning as the Herr Ober, is free of all the pretentiousness of his colleagues. He runs the restaurant, he directs traffic, and he places people with simple logic, where there is room. The doors are open and anyone is welcome. In the words of the venerable Mr. Seute: "You don't need a gestarchte shirt front to get in here.